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9 stijltips van Zabeth van Veen
Tachtig procent van de Westerse wereldbevolking ziet in een man met de combinatie donkerblauw, wit en rood de daadkrachtigste leider.
When I bought the book “the 85 ways to tie a tie” (13 feb 2005, I love my blog archives) I read about the 85 possible combinations of making a knot, the 4 most used ones (as can be predicted from the mathematical models) and 9 new aesthetic ones. I think this book belongs in every man’s library. It contains essential information on ties, the history and 85 ways including famous people who used these types of knots.
In my todo list I then added an item to make a movie of every possible knot combination and make a seperate section on this blog about it. It stayed on my todo list and I didn’t came to it. However in the meantime many video services started and I noted some tie-a-tie instrucitonal video’s appearing on these sites.
I thought I would share you these movies so they can help you to change once in a while the knot on your tie (or… monday’s the full windsor knot, tuesdays the half windsor knot, etc…).
I will keep the index of possible knots on the sequence from the book (in the book you can find with each knot a long description of the background of the knot and where it is used most and a long range of beautiful pictures, comparisons and descriptions on how to tie each knot):
THREE MOVE KNOTS (1 centre) |
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| Knot 1: “Oriental” also known as “simple knot“, “red knot“, “petit noeud“
Much used in China, it’s the first knot taught to schoolboys. It’s however also handy when you have a tie of very heavy fabric. The tie, which is placed inverted around the neck, is suitable with wool, and thick silk ties. The “Oriental” knot is symmetric knot which gets bigger as the tie gets thicker. |
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FOUR MOVE KNOTS (1 centre) |
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| Knot 2: “Four-in-hand”
The best known and most used knot today. The name was derived from the 19th century gentlemen’s club of the same name. This is the knot most fathers pass to their sons nowadays. |
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FIVE MOVE KNOTS (1 centre) |
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| Knot 3: “Kelvin”
An extension of the oriental (1), you might have seen Fred Astaire wearing this one all the time. |
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FIVE MOVE KNOTS (2 centres) |
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| Knot 4: “Nicky”
The advantage over the Pratt/Shelby is that it unties cleanly. It was invented by the Italian tie shop Nicky. |
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| How To Tie A Shelby Knot |
Knot 5: “Pratt” also known as “Shelby” and “reverse Half Windsor”
Apart from the four-in-a-hand (2), Windsor (31) and half Windsor (7) the Pratt/Shelby are the only knots which have gained widespread popularity. It was used as early as WWII. The american inventor Jerry Pratt used it 30 years before don Shelby introduced it on TV in 1989. |
Six Move Knots (1 centre) |
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| Knot 6: “Victoria”
It’s a knot similar to the four-in-a-hand but with added bulk, which can be handy for thin or well-worn ties. |
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Six Move Knots (2 centres) |
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| Knot 7: Half-Windsor
This is probably the most versatile of most knots and suits most collars. |
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| Knot 8, 9, 10: I have found no video yet, maybe you can send me one | Knot 8, Knot 9, Knot 10: I will skip them for this blogposting |
Seven Move Knots (1 centre) |
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| Knot 11: I have found no video yet, maybe you can send me one | Knot 11: I will skip it in this blogposting |
Seven Move Knots (2 centres) |
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| Knot 12: “St. Andrew” Lies between the half-Windsor and the Windsor but is more narrowly shaped. “not for an accountant but good for a merchant banker” |
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| Knot 13, 14, 15, 16: I have found no video yet, maybe you can send me one | Knot 13, 14, 15, 16 (smaller christensen), knot 17: I will skip them for this blogposting |
Seven Move Knots (3 centres) |
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| Knot 18: “Platssburgh” or “Dovorian” For light or medium weight ties with a semi cutaway collar. Most effective in bringing back life to well-worn ties. |
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| Knot 19: I have found no video yet, maybe you can send me one | Knot 19: “Self-releasing Platssburgh” |
| Knot 20,21: I have found no video yet, maybe you can send me one | Knot 20. 21: skipped |
Eight Move Knots (1 centre) |
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| Knot 22: I have found no video yet, maybe you can send me one | Knot 22: skipped |
Eight Move Knots (2 centres) |
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| Knot 23: I have found no video yet, maybe you can send me one | Knot 23: “Cavendish”
Its the same size as the Windsor but with two mirrored four-in-hands with the slight asymmetry. “A four-in-hand with substance” |
| Knot 25: “Christensen”
This was published in 1917 by the Swedish mail order company Stralin and Persson and republished by Swedish tie make Amanda Christensen. It was invented for straight ties but works well with narrow ties. |
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| Knot 26-30: I have found no video yet, maybe you can send me one | Knot 26,27,28,29,30 : skipped |
Eight Move Knots (3 centres) |
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| Knot 31: “Windsor”
The Prince of Wales, Duke of Windsor took a liking in large tie knots in 30′s. It is one of the four most used knots. “fastened with the popular Windsor knot, larger than the usual four-in-hand, to fill the space of the whole spread collar” (Esquire 1940) |
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| Knot 32-42: I have found no video yet, maybe you can send me one | Knot 32-42, some of which are also known as Windsors : skipped |
Nine Move Knots (1 centre) |
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| Knot 43: I have found no video yet, maybe you can send me one | Knot 43: skipped |
Nine Move Knots (2 centres) |
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| Knot 44: I have found no video yet, maybe you can send me one | Knot 44: “Grantchester”
Among the three principal nine moves ties (44, 54 and 78) the Grantchester is the narrowest and least conspicious. |
| Knot 45-53: I have found no video yet, maybe you can send me one | Knot 45, 46, 47, 48 (non releasing Grantchester), 49, 50,51, 52,53: skipped |
Nine Move Knots (3 centres) |
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| Knot 54 “Hanover”
The natural extension of the Oriental and the half-windsor. The only knots with perfect symmetry and balance. Because of the size of the knot to be used with cutaway or semi-cutaway collars. |
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| Knot 55-77: I have found no video yet, maybe you can send me one | Knot 55,56,57,58,59,60,61,62,63,64, 65,66,67,68,69,70,71,72,73,74,75,76,77 : skipped |
Nive Move Knots (4 centres) |
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| Knot 78: I have found no video yet, maybe you can send me one | Knot 78 “Balthus”
The Balthus is the last and broadest of knot classes. It is a direct extension from the Plattsburgh. Named after the artist Balthus. |
| Knot 79-85: I have found no video yet, maybe you can send me one | Knot 79 to 85: skipped |
OTHER |
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| The bow tie | |
| A cravat |
More references / learning resources:
- wikipedia on neckties: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Necktie
- references to knots on dmoz: http://www.dmoz.org/Reference/Knots/Neckties//
The designerduo Christian and Michael Sieger have created a new interesting design for the Gentlemen’s collection: a collection of elegant handmade silk ties, pochettes, smoking accessoires and cumberbunds in 36 different colors with names like “honeybee”, “chocolat” and polar bear”.
The magazine Flying Dutchman (the KLM magazine which I read today, I thought I would blog it) is giving away 10 Sieger Ties. Just send your your request to klmfdmagazine@hemels.com with your name, address and other contactinfo.
When I look through ebay I see a lot of tie’s labelled as “power tie’s”. I heard once that a true “power tie” is red. Is there somewhere a definition of a powertie?
This 8 bit tie is really something I had under my mouse to put in “my loot”.
I then restrained myself, since although I think I would be the coolest guy in the office probably my co-workers and client would think I have something wrong in my brain.
Still a shame… hmmm maybe a da vinci tie is something that is a reasonable alternative.
I keep seeing this picture by Ed van der Elsken on all kind of places, what’s going on? (e.g. in last weeks Intermediair, the sixties exposition, etc.) so I thought I would blog it so it will become of a nuisance to you too.
According to the fashion insiders, the coming summer will see re-vamp of the sixties clothing trends. Mini-skirts are here again.
Wat is het beste paar (werk)sokken dat er te koop is?
Omdat het weer lijstjes-tijd is wilde ik “sokken” op mijn verlanglijstje zetten, maar tjsa welke sokken specificeer je dan? Even een mini onderzoek.
De kleur van sokken is van belang, wit is sportief geaccepteerd maar inmiddels 
scheppen witte sokken en sandalen toch een bepaald beeld van een man. Een goede werksok moet dus donkerder gekleurd zijn, eventueel met een motiefje (randje met ruitjes). Dit wordt gezien als netter. Vooral geen Disney figuren of herkenbare zaken.
De lengte van de sok is ook van belang. Van die extreem korte sokjes zijn een beetje jaren 80 en wellicht op vakantie nog wel handig. Sokken tot over je knieen zijn zeker warm en kunnen wellicht nog net (persoonlijk heb ik er geen enkele maar ze lijken me heerlijk) maar normale korte kuitsokken zijn het meest geaccepteerd.
De linkersok en de rechtersok moeten een “gelijk paar” vormen. Een klein monogram als verschil is op zich wel chique.
75% van alle sokken komen uit Datang, China, dus sokken die een exclusievere oorsprong hebben zijn orgineler.
Sokken kunnen van wol, katoen, polyamide/nylon en elasthan zijn. Bij allerlei sokken zijn er allerlei combinaties te maken van deze 4 stoffen. De BIX sokken van fashionstore bijvoorbeeld hebben 65% polyamide en 35% wol en worden de sterkste sokken genoemd. De FALKE AIRPORT PLUS sokken van herensokken.nl zijn van wol en katoen met een badstof zool en meriono wol aan de buitenkant zodat de sok er langer en glanzender uitziet dan puur katoen (het is de meest verkochte sok), hij is 53% wol, 27% katoen en 20% polyamide. Ik ben er nog niet uit wat nou de beste combinatie is hier lees ik weer dat 80% marino wol en 20% nylon voor de elasticiteit het beste is.
De vormgeving en afwerking (techniek) van de sok zijn ook van belang. Je wilt een naadloze teennaad, versterking aan de onderzijde (teen, hiel, zool), goede warmte en transpiratie afvoer (de meeste mensen produceren een half glas zweer per dag daaro), enzovoort, hoe duurder de sok is hoe meer techniek erin verwerkt is. Afhankelijk van je smaak kan het “ribbel” patroontje duidelijker naar voren komen of niet.
Dan … als laatste komt daar nog de BRAND factor, een setje van 10socks is bijvoorbeeld “bloggable”, de smartwool 100% merino sokken zijn ook bekend evenals de Burlington’s met klassieke ruit, maar de “google” markt van sokken laten nog honderden andere brands zien. Hmmm… mischien ga ik mijn eigen sokken lijn beginnen, volgens mij is de “rolex” der sokken nog niet geboren namelijk.
Een paar sokkenwinkels op het web geven langzaam een beter beeld: Ykou, Sokkendirect, xsocks, teensokken, tchibo, herensokken.nl, socksshop.nl, mexx, onlinesokken.nl, go-socks, absolutesocks, joyofsocks, tekosocks (corn based socks!) maar zie ook de del.ico.us socks categorie.
Ik denk dat je me nu mag gaan helpen met de sokken-brands top 10.
ties.com, de grootste online stropdassen winkel stopt ermee en daarom krijg je nu 60 procent korting bij elke bestelling (gebruik daarvoor de code 9802B7).
Op Topless-Sandal.com kun je sandalen bestellen die bestaan uit louter de zool. Ze blijven simpelweg plakken onder je voeten, hey… die gaat op mijn lijstje, handig voor op vakantie.